Geothermal Heater


One thing — well, there are many things — nice about living so close to Yellowstone National Park, is the geothermal heat that is so common in Montana. There are more hot springs on the map than I can count, many of which have been developed into resorts like Norris Hot Springs, north of Ennis. Ground water is heated by volcanic activity beneath the earth’s surface and can make a real nice place to soak in a Friday night. Story has it that Norris got its start when miners installed a gate valve at one end of the pool in the 1880s.


Norris is a quaint little place, with lots of history and charm, including Felix the cat. Felix, a female, keeps the rodent population under control, employees say, and even successfully confronted a rattlesnake in the summer of 2012.


At Norris, the water comes to the surface at 120 degrees Fahrenheit, which is a little too warm for comfort, so they pipe it through some spray nozzles, which allow the water to cool.


There’s a valve at one end of the pool, and a well-preserved fir box lining the pool. Steve Devereaux says the pool is emptied every night and given a weekly power wash. Devereaux is usually the guy with the power washer going on Tuesday mornings. He says it can get a little unpleasant on the colder days of February.


Norris uses their geothermal resource for more than just the pool. They heat the women’s changing room (the men’s is too far from the water pump), the cafe and bar, and this geodesic dome, where Chad Okrusch kept warm while entertaining on a January Friday night.

In the summer issue of Montana Quarterlywhere these images first appeared, writer Amy Styx says that as Okrusch was tuning his guitar, he leaned into the microphone, thanked the crowd for being there, and said, “This is kind of a vortex for good energy.”


Fish Revolution

20130927182506The latest issue of Montana Quarterly is entirely dedicated to water issues. One of my contributions was this portrait of Dick Vincent, who had the temerity to tell established river stewards that stocking fish actually made a fishery worse, not better.

And he was right.

Now 40 years have gone by, and largely thanks to this one man, the Madison River in southwest Montana is one of the best places in the world to catch a wild trout.

Nice going, Dick.

Old Favorite


I’ve gotten a lot of mileage out of this picture of the brink of Upper Falls in Yellowstone National Park. And I found out this morning that National Geographic senior editor Kurt Mutchler selected this picture as one of 40 photographs for display at PhotoPlace Gallery’s The Art of Travel Photography exhibit June 2 through July 3.

Mutchler writes, “As a photo editor at National Geographic magazine I gravitate to photographs that capture a ‘decisive moment’ and are free of contrivance. I also look for landscapes that talk to me like good portraits—capturing the personality of the scene with beautiful light, perfect composition and a mood that beckons me there.”

Thanks. I’m honored.

New website

I’ve been spending the last couple of weeks building a new website. And I’m proud to say it’s up and running. Check it out when you get the chance:

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Water Town


At the turn of the 20th century, the U.S. government and the Northern Pacific railroad wanted more people to head west and homestead. In 1904, the Crow Indian tribe ceded a large portion of their reservation to the U.S. government. Though close to the Yellowstone River, the land was dry and difficult to farm. So in October 1905 the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation began construction on the canals of the Huntley Project Irrigation District, named for the Northern Pacific rail station of Huntley. The first water from the project made it to farmland for the 1908 growing season and the towns of Worden, Ballantine and Pompeys Pillar were soon plotted at about six-mile intervals to the east along the railroad.

The main canal is 32 miles long and irrigates 29,000 acres of farmland through a swatch of prairie measuring 2.7 miles long and four miles wide.


Dale Bilyeu is the part-time manager of the HPID. He’s been a rancher and farmer in the Huntley area for more than 40 years. His economic life has been tied to the water the project delivers.

In May 2011, Bilyeu’s livelihood — and those of his neighbors — had a big problem. Less than two miles downstream from it’s diversion dam in the Yellowstone River, a 100-year flood event  knocked out a syphon that channeled river water beneath Pryor Creek and into the irrigation canal. Five hundred thousand dollars was needed to make a temporary fix for the 2011 irrigation season, Bilyeu says, then $2.3 million to install a new, sturdier version of the syphon.


Most of the irrigation in the Huntley Project is in the form of gated pipe, which sends a flood of water through the furrows of a field of crops — mostly feed corn, sugar beets, malt barley, hay and alfalfa in the area.

Adam Vogel manages the gated pipe irrigation system Vogel Land and Cattle uses to irrigate their feed corn fields near Ballantine. Vogel says he runs water for 8 to 12 hours from the irrigation canal out of the pipe into the fields about four times each year, depending on conditions. The water runs downhill through the furrows of the fields, ultimately winding up back in the Yellowstone River.

Vogel, 30, says he has spent all of his life in Ballantine, but when people ask where he’s from, “We just tell people we’re from Huntley,” he says. “You say you’re from Ballantine, nobody knows where that’s at.”


The Express Way convenience store is a big gathering spot in downtown Huntley, population 446. Jim Clarkson, left, visits with Bud Sherrodd, a farmer and construction contractor who who says he spent a portion of that day digging a hole for a friend’s new septic system in Huntley.


Melissa Koch, 28, grew up in Portland, Ore., but visited Huntley often on family vacations. When her dad moved back to Huntley, Melissa followed in 2009.

“It was a culture shock, I’ll give you that,” she says.

She has been director of the Huntley Project Museum of Irrigated Agriculture since 2010, where visitors can get an idea of what life was like for the early settlers of the Huntley Project Irrigation District.


Many of the present settlers of the HPID stop in at one time or another to drink coffee or beer at the Dark Horse Saloon in downtown Worden. Dick Miller, reading the paper just before the second shift of coffee drinkers steps in, owns the Dark Horse with his wife, Dixie.


Dixie Miller, visiting with the afternoon coffee shift, says the back bar and nine others like it were stolen off of a train near Roundup in the early 20th century. By 1913, she says, the bar had been floated up the Yellowstone and installed in its present location. She says coffee drinkers come into the bar at 5:30 a.m., 7 a.m., 10 a.m. and again sometime between 2 p.m. and 3 p.m., “depending on how their naps went.”


Around the corner from the Dark Horse is Michael Reiter’s Project Merc grocery store. Reiter, 49, says he grew up on his grandparents’ homestead nearby and began working for the store at 14. He bought it 10 years later.

He says he works 12- to 14-hour days six days a week, then often pops in on Sundays just to see if he’s needed. When I found him as the sun was rising on a late summer morning, he had been unloading produce for nearly two hours at the back of the store.

Reiter and other businesses in the community face challenges from proximity to the big box stores of Billings, a city of more than 100,000 people less than an hour’s drive away. And when the school that serves the Huntley, Worden and Ballantine area burned down five years ago, things looked especially bad.

But the school was rebuilt and open three years later, showing a commitment to maintaining a living, breathing community.

I provide a service to our community,” Reiter says, “to make sure we have a store in our town.”

The Undiscovered Country of the Nearby

20140204081626-Edit“We need more Americans to engage with wilderness, and not just by visiting national parks, because many can’t afford to vacation there. We need people to appreciate nature where they live, so they’ll see the importance of preserving it everywhere.”

— John Elder as interviewed by Leath Tonino in the June 2013 issue of The Sun.

I’ve been making an effort lately to appreciate where I live. And when I came across the John Elder interview above and it referenced the wonderful phrase, “the undiscovered country of the nearby,” coined by John Hanson Mitchell in his book, The Wildest Place on Earth, I was touched.

So I’ll share these pictures — all except for the one above made within three miles of my cookie-cutter house in sea of beige in northwest Bozeman. I found the snow covered boulder above along the Gallatin River about 30 miles south of me.






Benny Reynolds passes

20090619193516-3That’s Benny Reynolds, world champion cowboy, having fun with a friend at the Dillon, Mont., senior rodeo back in 2009.

Mr. Reynolds passed away Friday at age 77 while loading hay at his ranch near Twin Bridges.

One of Sports Illustrated’s 50 greatest Montana sports figures of the 20th century, Reynolds was inducted into the Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame in 1993, and a career that spanned six decades includes honors like Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association Rookie of the Year for 1958, All-Around Champion in 1961, and more than 300 belt buckles.

Plus, he was a heck of a nice guy.

“He had to be every one of our heroes when we were growing up,”  Jim Croff, president of the Montana Pro Rodeo Association, is quoted as saying to the Great Falls Tribune in 2010.

What better way to be remembered?



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